The world's biggest specialist
What's it like out there? time to find out!
In order for you to know how to present your bait, or in many cases whether it is worth presenting your bait, in a particular spot, it is vital to know the depth of water in front of you, and what you are fishing over. Carp use the bottom of a lake to navigate their way round like we use roads to get too and from where we want to go. Hugging bars, following troughs, feeding on plateaus, dipping down into holes, unless you know the depth you won’t understand the importance of the feature. Where features are visual such as weed beds and snags it is easy enough, but what is under the surface that you are staring out at?
Time to get your marker rod, reel and float out, to find that answer.
In very simple terms, which I will go into more detail on later, you pull the float tight to the lead on the bottom and then paying off a foot of line at a time from your reel so you can count how deep it is…easy !
Close-up of the perfect set-up
First of all, the tools of the trade. Because you need a rod strong enough to cast out around three and a half ounces of lead and a large float you need a strong rod with a test curve around three pounds. For the experienced angler who wants the best come what may the Infinity Rod range is best but I will let you into a secret. I use a bog standard 12ft Mission 3lb TC Carp rod and it’s brilliant. The fast tip but progressive action is ideal for feeling the bottom through the line, yet strong enough to belt it out into a headwind.
The reel is a large spooled Emcast which allows for long casts but doesn’t cost the earth. Reel line is Daiwa Sensor Bulk which for under seventy yards I use straight through 15lb or for longer range I use the 10lb to a tapered leader. You can use braid but unless your water really is very featureless I don’t find that necessary and sometimes quite confusing as it can be too responsive. I use a Nash Marker float and using a Nash Marker Link System I attach a lead to the link clip and thread the line through the large run ring and then attach this to the marker float.
Line up on an object on the far bank
Once in the swim I want to feature find at, I draw a quick sketch of it with a sightline off the far bank on it so I know what I am casting at. The far bank can be marked with the tree outline, holes in the trees etc., just so you have reference points in the day and night. Then it is rod over my shoulder and punt the float and lead out as far as I would want to know the features of.
Let it drop to the lakebed on a tight line so you are in constant contact with the lead. Now wind in a little till you feel a bump…right…that’s the float jarring against the large run ring around eight inches from the lead on the lake bed. Now pay off line a foot at a time keeping that line tight and the rod pointed directly at the lead. When the float hit’s the surface you will be able to count how deep it is from the line you paid off and the extra eight inches between the run ring and lead. Write it down and wind down to the lead again. Now wind in a couple of feet and repeat the process.
You will gradually be able to find how the lakebed rises and falls as the float comes closer in. Also as the lead trundles along the bottom you will be able to feel what is on the bottom as well. Feels like you are pulling through cotton wool …. probably silt ! Clonking and jarring … that’s gravel! A smooth trip …. Sand! Locking up then coming free but heavy …. Weed!
Up she pops, make a note of the depth
Wind the marker down to the lead, pull the lead in a short distance, and repeat stages 4 and 5
Have a mark on the rod, and count out the distance as you pay out the line
